Snorkeling:
In Antigua, we found some of the ‘best’ snorkeling outside of Falmouth harbor: One harbor south in Windward Bay. There was a variety of coral here including many green and purple fans but not many large fish. Still, it is fun to watch a “raiding party.” This is typically a group of 20-40 Blue Tangs (“Dorey” from Finding Nemo) that travel in a “pack” pecking at the reef for algae. The small damsel fish, trying to protect their “ 0.5 meter2 patch of “lawn,” do not stand a chance. When we looked closer at this “party” there were other fish that mask or camouflage their colors to get in on the algae sampling party. Behind the pack, follow similarly camouflaged predatory trumpet fish, the traumatized damsel fish is so preoccupied that their algae field is being trampled by this aquatic herd that usually he/se doesn’t see that they are about to become lunch.
After Falmouth, we spent two nights in northern Carlisle Bay. Pelicans dove repetitively into the waters between our anchorage and the resort on land. While on the surface I saw many turtles, they quickly disappear. In this anchorage, the water was hazy due to the sand and swell surge of the local beach.
Away from the shore, on a local “mooring,” two blue barrels in sand along a rocky beach, we looped up our dinghy for an afternoon snorkel. Not much in the way of coral formations, but some more groups of yellow snappers and butterfly fish. The fish are skittish. (I include these paragraphs to highlight that not every spot along this journey has crystal clear water and a beautiful reef. But you won’t know until you try it.)
The following afternoon I thought we could try the next harbor over to the north. As we crossed between the two bays in our 3.4 meter dinghy, we quickly realize that the waves are much higher than anticipated and they were ricocheting off a rocky cliff. Returning to Carlislie Bay, I recommended to look for a new spot along the north side of this harbor. Unable to find a mooring to tie up to, Scott agreed to let Jenna and I do a drift snorkeling. Visibility was still less than ideal even though we were far from the sandy beach. Underwater, I could not see the rock reef edge clearly and I was also looking back to check on Jenna. I was not far above my first lionfish of this trip when I called out…. “We’re done. Back to the boat.” Lionfish have poisonous spines and look beautiful but they are an invasive species. I think that I read that they eat 10 + reef fish per day and have no natural predators. I am aware that they do not typically swim outside a specific home region of <1 meter. So, I know it is not going to “attack” us. This one was positioned between two rocks to limit the rolling swell we were experiencing at the surface, but I was not comfortable about how close we have drifted over it before I “see it” and the swell was constantly changing how high above these rocks we are floating. Oh well. Other places to try in the future.
After a few other stops, we sailed south to Deshaies, Guadeloupe. On the northern side of this harbor, there are three moorings and after tying off our dinghy, we can all slip into the water. I look down and it is clear to 50+ feet. There are many large barrel sponges. This, to me, is beautiful. There are multiple vase sponges and we spot our first turtles while underwater. They are shy and quickly swim away.
A few days later after exploring at the local botanical gardens, we sailed and/or I should say motored (story for another post) further south, Pigeon Island, Bouillante, Guadeloupe is the site of the Jacques Cousteau Marine reserve. We enjoyed most of our snorkeling trips to these islands. We saw an octopus, spotted eels, parrotfish and a wide range of coral (some bleached and some healthy) even some elkhorn coral. There were only three moorings for cruisers’ dinghies around the two uninhabited islands (where there may have been five or six in the past). All the rest are for the local professional dive/snorkel boats. We were very politely told not to use their moorings (with pink dots) which we had on our first outing. Lucky for us, upon surfacing, the local dive operator was pleasant but clear with his correction, as compared to other cruisers experienced a “local boat “removing their dinghy line from the pendant while they were still in the water with their kids!!
French Pastries and/or Ice cream or both
In Falmouth harbor, Antigua, we were spoiled by the bakery boat that motored around the anchorage each morning with warm delicacies.
In Deshaies, Guadaloupe, they have a wonderful French bakery directly across the street from the dock and another wonderful Pâtisserie in Bouillante. French croissants and baguettes abound.
In Les Saintes, Guadaloupe, Scott and Jenna have found some of the best ice cream (Smurf ice cream for Jenna, Take a look at the picture below and judge for yourself if she thought it was delicious)
A small shop here in Sainte Anne, Martinique carries the same brand and Jenna tried both mente chocolat and lychee, on separate days. Scott has tried their vanilla bourbon and their crème brulee. I was surprised to hear that Jenna liked the lychee ice cream—but again you won’t know until you try it…… and she didn’t share any with me.
A crepe shop in Guadaloupe, included cookies and cream ice cream (made with chocolate oreos) in a crepe — we thought that it was funny as it was called “American biscuit.”
Finale:
The delicacies were not everyday treats, no more than finding that sweet snorkeling spot, however at this rate of success, we are going to need to do a lot more swimming and hiking as we move south!
The sweet spot for me was having met new friends to enjoy sunset happy hours with and to help orient heavy docklines in heavy winds on more than one occasion in French Island mooring fields! Thank you Balavu!!
